Construction

What Wire Gauge Do I Need Based on Amperage and Distance?

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Choosing the correct wire gauge (mm²) is critical for electrical safety: a wire that's too small for the current it carries will overheat, melt the insulation, and cause electrical fires. Wire sizing depends on two factors: (1) the current-carrying capacity of the wire (how many amps it can safely handle without overheating) and (2) the allowable voltage drop (maximum 3% for residential, 5% for industrial installations). This calculator evaluates both requirements and gives you the smallest commercial wire gauge (1.5 | 2.5 | 4 | 6 | 10 | 16 | 25 | 35 mm²) that meets safety standards with a safety margin. It also recommends the appropriate circuit breaker size and calculates the actual voltage drop in your installation. Works for 220V single-phase (standard residential) and 380V three-phase (industrial/large equipment). Based on AEA 90364 (Argentine Electrical Association standards) — the electrical code used in Argentina.

Last reviewed: April 27, 2026 Verified by Source: , , , 100% private

When to use this calculator

  • Installing an air conditioning unit in a room far from the electrical panel — determining the correct wire size.
  • Doing the electrical wiring for a house addition or new construction.
  • Adding a new circuit for an electric oven, water heater, or motor.
  • Your circuit breaker keeps tripping and you want to know if the wire is undersized.
  • Licensed electrician preparing project plans and technical specifications.

Real-world example: wire for a 3,000 BTU air conditioner (1,200 W consumption) 25 m from the breaker panel

  1. Amperage: 1,200 W ÷ 220 V ≈ 5.5 A continuous. With inrush current + safety margin: size for 20 A (breaker + wire).
  2. Distance: 25 m from breaker panel to AC unit.
  3. Wire gauge formula: S = (2 × L × A × ρ_copper) / ΔV = (2 × 25 × 20 × 0.0178) / 6.6 = 2.70 mm².
  4. Commercial wire size: round up to next standard → 4 mm² (2.5 mm² lacks sufficient margin for 20 A and voltage drop).
  5. Wire capacity at 4 mm²: 28 A (twice the actual consumption with safety margin).
  6. Actual voltage drop with 4 mm²: (2 × 25 × 20 × 0.0178) / 4 = 4.45 V = 2.02% ✓ (under 3% limit).
  7. Breaker size: 20 A (just above the inrush current, well below wire capacity).
Result: For a 3,000 BTU AC unit 25 m away: 4 mm² wire + 20 A breaker. Voltage drop is 2.02%, within the 3% AEA standard. Approximate cost: $8,000–$12,000 for 25 m of cable.

How it works

5 min read

Formulas

Voltage drop (single-phase 220V)

ΔV = 2 × L × A × ρ / S

Where:
  ΔV = voltage drop (V)
  L  = cable length (m, one direction)
  A  = amperage (A)
  ρ  = copper resistivity = 0.0178 Ω·mm²/m at 20°C
  S  = conductor cross-section (mm²)
  2  = factor for round-trip current path

For three-phase 380V

ΔV = √3 × L × A × ρ / S

Solving for wire gauge

S = (2 × L × A × ρ) / ΔV_max

Where ΔV_max = V × (maxDropPercent / 100) → for 220V and 3%: ΔV_max = 6.6 V.

Wire ampacity by gauge (AEA 90364)

Gauge (mm²)Capacity A (in conduit)Capacity A (open air)Typical use
1.01014Small lighting circuits
1.51419Standard lighting (IU)
2.52126Standard outlets (TU)
4.02836Air conditioning, general outlets (TUG)
6.03645Electric ovens, water heaters
10.05063Kitchen circuits, special outlets (TUE)
16.06885Main service entrance (small house)
25.089112Main service entrance (large house)
35.0110140Multi-unit building service
50.0134170Generator connection
70.0171215Industrial distribution panels
95.0207260Industrial distribution

Residential circuit classifications per AEA

Circuit typeWire gaugeBreakerTypical load
IUA (general lighting)1.5 mm²10 A1,500 W lighting
IUG (general lighting)1.5 mm²10 A1,500 W lighting
TUA (standard outlets)2.5 mm²20 A4,400 W (computers, TVs)
TUG (general outlets)2.5 mm²20 A4,400 W
TUE (kitchen/laundry special)4.0 mm²25 A5,500 W (washer, microwave)
Air conditioning4.0–6.0 mm²20–25 A4,500–5,500 W
Electric water heater4.0–6.0 mm²25 A5,500 W
Electric oven6.0 mm²32 A7,000 W
Main service entrance16 mm²40–63 AWhole house

Voltage, amperage, and power

P (W)  = V × A       (single-phase)
P (W)  = √3 × V × A × cos(φ)   (three-phase)
A      = P / V

Residential examples:
  100 W light bulb at 220V  → 0.45 A
  LED TV 150 W              → 0.68 A
  Microwave 1,200 W         → 5.45 A
  Water heater 2,200 W      → 10.0 A
  Electric oven 3,500 W     → 15.9 A
  AC unit 3,000 BTU 1,200W  → 5.45 A
  Electric range 7,000 W    → 31.8 A (very high!)

Why voltage drop matters

Voltage drop is the loss of voltage along the wire due to its electrical resistance. If you have 220V at the panel but only 210V reaches the equipment, that's a 10V drop = 4.5%.

Problems from excessive voltage drop

  • Poor equipment performance: lights dim, motors struggle to start.

  • Overheating: motors draw more current trying to compensate → wire overheats.

  • Electronics fail: computers, TVs, and control boards are damaged by low voltage.

  • Wasted energy: equipment runs longer and hotter to do the same job.
  • Maximum allowable drop (AEA standards)

    ApplicationMax voltage drop
    Residential3%
    Commercial4%
    Industrial5%
    Motor starting (inrush)6%
    Sensitive equipment (servers, UPS)1%

    Circuit breaker selection

    The circuit breaker (or thermal breaker) protects the wire from overheating. It must satisfy:

    A_equipment  ≤  A_breaker  ≤  A_wire_capacity

    Example: 15 A equipment, 2.5 mm² wire (21 A capacity) → 16 A breaker (next size above equipment, below wire capacity).

    Standard breaker sizes (A): 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160.

    Differential breaker (RCD/GFCI)

    Every residential installation must have a differential breaker of 30 mA (mandatory by AEA). It protects against electrocution by cutting power if current leaks to ground. It does not replace the thermal breaker — they work together.

    Wire color codes per AEA

    ColorFunction
    Brown / BlackLive (phase), 220V
    Light blueNeutral
    Green/yellow stripedGround (earth)
    Red / GraySecond phase (split-phase or three-phase)

    True ground is always green-and-yellow stripe. A wire that's only green or only yellow is not ground.

    Wire types

    TypeApplication
    NYM / NYAFixed in-wall installations
    Flexible workshop cableTemporary runs, appliance cords
    Underground cableBuried runs, extra insulation
    Fire-resistantHigh-rise buildings (smoke reduction)
    Bare copper/aluminumGround connections, inside conduit
    Armored (MC)Industrial, high-interference areas

    Indicative pricing (Argentina 2026)

    Wire sizeCost per meter (100m spool)
    1.5 mm²$800 – $1,200
    2.5 mm²$1,200 – $1,800
    4 mm²$1,800 – $2,800
    6 mm²$2,500 – $3,800
    10 mm²$4,000 – $5,500
    16 mm²$6,000 – $8,500

    Common brands: Imsa, Pirelli, Delcable, Prysmian.

    Installation tips

    1. Never overload an outlet: avoid power strips for air conditioners or microwaves.
    2. Wires in conduit: cables run inside plastic or rigid conduit.
    3. No splices inside conduit: splices only in junction boxes.
    4. Strict color code: professional electricians always follow AEA colors.
    5. Subpanel for large loads: homes over 1,000 sq ft benefit from a second panel near heavy users (kitchen, laundry).
    6. Inspect every 5 years: wire insulation degrades; check for loose connections and heat.

    Common residential setups

    Small house (70 m² / 750 sq ft)

  • 1 lighting circuit: 1.5 mm² + 10 A breaker

  • 1 outlet circuit: 2.5 mm² + 20 A breaker

  • 1 kitchen/laundry circuit: 4 mm² + 25 A breaker

  • 1 AC circuit (if equipped): 4 mm² + 20 A breaker

  • Main service: 16 mm² + 40 A breaker + 25 A / 30 mA differential
  • Medium house (150 m² / 1,600 sq ft)

  • 2 lighting circuits (6+6 A)

  • 2 outlet circuits (20+20 A)

  • 1 kitchen special (25 A)

  • 2 AC circuits (25+25 A)

  • 1 water heater (32 A)

  • Main service: 25 mm² + 63 A breaker + 63 A / 30 mA differential
  • Common mistakes

    1. Oversizing for false safety: jumping from 1.5 to 4 mm² is wasteful. Use the AEA table.
    2. Ignoring distance: 30 m with 2.5 mm² at 20 A causes over 5% drop (non-compliant).
    3. Breaker larger than wire: NEVER. If wire is 2.5 mm² (21 A capacity), max breaker is 20 A.
    4. Skipping the differential: not optional — it's a legal and safety requirement.
    5. Poor ground connections: most older houses have inadequate grounding. Test with a ground meter.

    Related calculators

  • Electrical energy consumption (kWh) — estimate your utility bill.

  • Air conditioner BTU sizing — calculate load before wiring.

  • Heating watts by room — electric heaters draw significant amperage.

  • Construction cost per square meter — full project budgeting.
  • Frequently asked questions

    How do I know what wire gauge I need for my circuit?

    Use three factors: (1) amperage of the load (divide watts by 220V), (2) distance from breaker to equipment, and (3) voltage drop limit (3% for residential). For example, a 20 A load 25 m away needs 4 mm² wire to stay under 3% drop. This calculator handles the math automatically.

    How many amps can a 2.5 mm² wire safely handle?

    According to AEA 90364: 21 A inside conduit (the standard for residential). 26 A in open air. In practice, a 20 A breaker is used with 2.5 mm² wire, allowing equipment up to 20 A = 4,400 W at 220V. This is the most common residential outlet circuit.

    What is voltage drop and why does it matter?

    Voltage drop is the loss of voltage traveling through a wire due to resistance. If 220V leaves the panel but only 210V reaches the equipment, that's a 4.5% drop. Excessive drop causes lights to dim, motors to overheat, and electronics to fail. Residential code limits it to 3%.

    How far can I run 2.5 mm² wire at 15 amps before voltage drop becomes a problem?

    For 3% maximum drop at 220V: approximately 18 meters round-trip distance (9 m one way). Beyond that, you'll exceed 3% drop. For longer runs, use 4 mm² wire instead, which allows roughly 28 m one-way at the same amperage.

    Should I use copper or aluminum wire for my home electrical installation?

    Copper is the standard for residential work: it has lower resistance, better conductivity, and more durable connections. Aluminum is cheaper (~40% less) but has higher resistance, requiring thicker gauge (~50% larger) to match copper's capacity. Aluminum is used only for large outdoor distribution lines or sections over 35 mm². For homes: always copper.

    What's the difference between single-phase (220V) and three-phase (380V) electrical service?

    Single-phase 220V: 2 wires (phase + neutral) + ground. Standard residential. Power = V × A. Good for loads up to ~40 A. Three-phase 380V: 4 wires (3 phases + neutral) + ground. For industrial, large commercial, or high consumption. Power = √3 × V × A × power factor. More efficient for motors and large continuous loads.

    Why does my circuit breaker keep tripping?

    Three main reasons: (1) Overload — too many amps for the circuit. Remove devices. (2) Short circuit — a live wire touching neutral or ground. Call an electrician (fire risk). (3) Old/faulty breaker — degrades every 10–15 years. Never replace it with a larger breaker unless you also upgrade the wire. Always investigate the cause first.

    Is a GFCI (differential) breaker really necessary?

    Yes, it's mandatory per AEA 90364 in all residential installations since 1990. A 30 mA differential breaker detects leaks to ground and cuts power instantly — protecting against electrocution. Without one: (1) serious electrocution risk, (2) legal non-compliance, (3) insurance claims may be denied, (4) utility may refuse connection. Install it in your main panel.

    What happens if I use undersized wire for my circuit?

    Extremely dangerous. Undersized wire overheats from resistance (P = I²×R), which melts the insulation, causing short circuits and electrical fires. The breaker may not trip immediately if the overload is gradual. This is the #1 cause of residential electrical fires in Argentina. Always respect AEA sizing tables — it's literally a life-or-death decision.

    What are the electrical wire color codes, and why do they matter?

    Brown/Black = live (phase, 220V). Light blue = neutral. Green-yellow striped = ground. Red/Gray = second phase. Color codes must be followed strictly — wrong colors create confusion, dangerous mistakes, and shocks. A professional electrician always respects the AEA color standard.

    Sources and references