Saving and investing
How much will this money be worth, and how should I split it?
Compounding is the whole game, and the two things that decide it are time and the rate you actually keep after fees and inflation. Enter what you have and what you add, and you get the ending balance, how much of it is growth you never deposited, what it is worth in today’s money, and how the position should be sized against the rest of what you own.
Reviewed 27-07-2026 Ordinary-annuity compounding · standard bond math 22 calculators inside
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Growing a lump sum, drip-feeding contributions, and deciding how to split a portfolio are three separate calculations. Pick yours.
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Rates and yields are all inputs — none of them are stable enough to hardcode. Fill in what applies to the case you picked.
Educational tool, not investment advice or a recommendation. Returns and capital can fluctuate or be lost; verify costs and risks with an authorized provider or adviser.
How the total adds up
The projection, line by line
All amounts are in US dollars unless the row says otherwise.
The split between the money you put in and the growth you never deposited. Over long horizons the growth slice overtakes the contributions slice — that crossover is the whole argument for starting early.
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Frequently asked questions
How does compound interest actually work?
Each period, interest is applied to the balance you already have — including the interest you earned in previous periods — and then your contribution is added. That "interest on interest" is what makes the curve bend upward. This hub uses the same end-of-period convention as standard annuity math.
What is the Rule of 72?
Divide 72 by the annual percentage return to get the rough number of years for money to double. At 7% that is about 10.3 years. It is a mental shortcut, accurate to within a few percent for rates between roughly 4% and 12%; the mathematically exact constant for continuous compounding is 69.3.
Does compounding frequency matter much?
Less than people expect. At 7% over 20 years, moving from annual to monthly compounding on a $10,000 lump sum adds a few hundred dollars — real but small. The rate, the time horizon and the fees all matter far more than the cadence.
What is my return after inflation?
Not simply return minus inflation, though that is close enough at low numbers. The exact real return is (1 + nominal) ÷ (1 + inflation) − 1. At 7% nominal and 3% inflation that is 3.88%, not 4%. Over 30 years the difference in ending balance is substantial.
How much does a 1% fee really cost?
Roughly a fifth of your ending balance over 30 years. A 1% annual expense ratio does not take 1% of your final balance — it takes 1% of the whole balance every single year, so the compounding you lose compounds too. It is the single most controllable variable in the whole projection.
How big should my emergency fund be?
Three months of essential expenses if your income is stable and you have no dependants, six months for most people, and twelve if your income is variable or you are self-employed. Size it on essential expenses — rent, food, utilities, insurance and minimum debt payments — not on income.
Should I build the emergency fund or pay off debt first?
Usually a small buffer first, then the debt, then finish the fund. One month of expenses stops the next surprise from going straight onto the card; after that, high-interest debt at 20%+ beats a savings account at any realistic yield. Coming back to finish the fund afterwards costs the least overall.
What is a three-fund portfolio?
A total US stock market fund, a total international stock fund and a total bond fund, held in fixed proportions and rebalanced. It is popular because it is cheap, diversified across thousands of holdings, and simple enough to keep going through a bad year — which is the part most strategies fail.
How do I size a position?
Decide the percentage of capital you are prepared to lose on the trade, then divide that dollar amount by the distance to your stop. Risking 1% of a $100,000 account with an 8% stop gives a $12,500 position. The position size falls out of the risk, rather than the other way round.
What does the Sharpe ratio tell me?
Return above the risk-free rate, divided by volatility — how much return you got per unit of risk taken. It is what makes two strategies with different volatilities comparable. Above 1 is generally considered good, but it is extremely sensitive to the window you compute it over, so treat any short-sample Sharpe with suspicion.
What is modified duration?
The approximate percentage change in a bond’s price for a one-percentage-point change in yield. A duration of 8 means a 1% rise in rates costs roughly 8% of the price. It is a first-order estimate: for large rate moves it understates the gain and overstates the loss, because it ignores convexity.
What does a P/E ratio actually mean?
Price divided by earnings per share — how many dollars you pay for a dollar of annual earnings. Inverted, it is the earnings yield. A P/E of 20 is a 5% earnings yield. It is only meaningful compared against the same company's history and its sector; comparing a utility to a software company on P/E tells you nothing.